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	<title><![CDATA[RepairManual.com FAQ]]></title>
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	<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 18:13:02 GMT</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Customer Service Inquiries]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=11</link>
		<description><![CDATA[If you have questions about our company, our policies or an existing order please visit our <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/customer-service/" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">Customer Service Knowledgebase</a> at: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/customer-service/" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/customer-service/</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<a href="http://www.repairmanual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external"><br />http://www.repairmanual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 18:13:02 GMT</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Fork Seal Replacement ZX750 Kawasaki]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=10</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I am trying to replace the fork seals in my 1987 Kawasaki ZX750F. They are leaking bad! I have the forks off as the manual describes, but it says that the fork tube should work out of the bottom of the fork after I took the allen bolt out of the bottom. It appears that the seal itself is the only thing holding them together. What is the best way to get them apart so I can change the seals? I do not want to put too much pressure on anything for fear of causing damage. Thanks!</i><br /><br />Make sure you have removed the retaining clips from the top of the fork seals. You didn't mention you had done this. Try clamping the tube in a vise. You can use some blocks of wood to protect the metal. A good place to clamp the forks is where the brake caliper bolts are tapped. This way you won't leave any serious marks on the lower leg. Give the tube a good stiff pull up and the seal should pop out.<br /><br />See: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1987/34/0/4886" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1987/34/0/4886</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:31:45 GMT</pubDate>
		<comments>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/comments.php?id=10#comments</comments>
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		<title><![CDATA[Oil Leak Honda Shadow 500]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=9</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I own a 1986 Honda Shadow 500 and was wondering if it has a pressure relief valve or something on the oil pump housing. It is leaking oil from a perfectly round hole on bottom of shaft connecting it to block!</i><br /><br />You've got a leak. Get yourself a repair manual and follow the repair procedure for replacing the seal. I suggest you check the oil level in the motor and the drive shaft unit before driving it any further. If you absolutely need to drive the cycle be sure to closely monitor and maintain sufficient oil levels until you can permanently solve the problem.<br /><br />See: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1986/27/0/490" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1986/27/0/490</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:29:21 GMT</pubDate>
		<comments>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/comments.php?id=9#comments</comments>
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		<title><![CDATA[Starting Trouble with CSR1000 Kawasaki]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=8</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I have a 1982 CSR1000 Kawasaki, when I got it the owner said that as soon as you turned the ignition on it blew the main fuse. Now it turns on with no problem but it acts like the starter button doesn't work, but I metered the starter button and it's operating fine. Before I start tearing it apart, is there any known parts (starter, wiring, etc.) known to have any problems in this area on this bike. Thanks</i><br /><br />You'll need to test your starter, and the starter solenoid. If you need additional help with this I suggest you purchase a service manual that will detail the process.<br /><br />For more information please see: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1982/34/7/4704" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1982/34/7/4704</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:26:40 GMT</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Dirty Carbs? Suzuki GSX-R750L]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=7</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I have a 90' Suzuki 750 gsxr. when I started it this spring it wouldn't run without the choke on so I pulled the carbs off and cleaned them. me being me, I didn't take the jets out, I just sprayed them with gum out. I put the carbs back on, started the bike and was surprised to discover that the bike would not idle down (though it did run with out the choke) I turned the idle down (all the way) it made no difference. also when I cracked the throttle it would rev down very slowly<br />and would backfire (occasionally) through the muffler. also-the oddest thing- the 2 outside cylinders got very hot, while the 2 inside ones remain just get hot. as far as I can tell there is no mixture screw on the carbs. there is a pilot screw (I don't know what that does though). so-<br />I pulled the carbs back off, went completely through them (cleaning) including adjusting the butterflies so they close all the way when not open. I put them back on to reveal the same outcome. the only conclusion I can come to is that there is an air leak on the intake boot (manifold.) what do you think could be to blame? </i><br /><br />I know you don't want to hear this but I think your carbs may still have some foreign matter clogged up in them. I suggest you either take them to a shop that can fully disassemble and clean or buy a book to tell you how to do it and then properly adjust the carbs for your bike.<br /><br />For more information please see: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1990/62/6/5867" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1990/62/6/5867</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:25:10 GMT</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Bad Battery? Honda VT1100C Shadow]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=6</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I own a 1985 Honda Shadow. It has been running fine, but recently I have encountered a problem. It started off by what I thought to be a weak battery. The first time I kick started it and it ran somewhat well. However it did not start the second time so I had to kick start it again. This time I drove it around a bit to charge up the battery. I started to go up a hill and it started to lose power, so I turned around and went down the hill. When I got at the bottom it died. It would not start again, and now I don't know what it could be. Any suggestions?</i><br /><br />Your ignition runs off the battery. Take your battery in to be checked and most likely replaced. You can check the battery yourself using a special tester available at any auto parts store that tests specific gravity of the battery fluid. A voltage test only tells half the story.<br /><br />For more information on your bike please see: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1985/27/0/444" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1985/27/0/444</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:23:28 GMT</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Sooty Sparkplug on Honda CRF250X 2005]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=5</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I've got a Honda CRF250X and over the winter I rebuilt my engine with new rings, cylinder head etc. It starts perfect but keeps sooting up the spark plug. The bike has plenty of top end power but it will not idle properly. What would cause this?</i><br /><br />From what you've described it sounds like the carb is gunked up. Take the carb off and either bring it to someone who is qualified to clean and adjust it or give it good thorough cleaning yourself. Be sure to follow the section that details cleaning and adjusting the carb in the fuel section of your repair manual.<br /><br />You can find repair items for your CRF250X here: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/2005/1/1/16403" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/2005/1/1/16403</a><br /><br /><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:18:58 GMT</pubDate>
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		<title><![CDATA[Yamaha 700 Maxim Service Manual]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=4</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I am looking for what would be the original manual that came with my 1986 Yamaha 700 Maxim from the factory. Is that a service manual? Thanks, Randy</i><br /><br />Randy, That would be the owners manual.<br /><br />The owners manual contains basic instructions for how to operate the machine and some maintenance advice. If you intend to service your vehicle on a regular basis I would suggest you seek out a factory of aftermarket service manual. A service manual will provide much more comprehensive repair information.<br /><br />Yamaha made two Maxims in 1986 so depending on which one you have check out:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1986/69/0/3359" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1986/69/0/3359</a><br />or<br /><a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1986/69/0/3362" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1986/69/0/3362</a> <br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:08:30 GMT</pubDate>
		<comments>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/comments.php?id=4#comments</comments>
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		<title><![CDATA[1993 Honda CBR 600 F2 Oil in Coolant]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=3</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>There is oil in the coolant reserve of my 1993 Honda CBR 600 F2. I guess I've got a leak but I don't know where how or why. I've changed the oil about a week before the problem occurred so I'm guessing blown head gasket or water pump seal. Any suggestions? I don't know what to do.</i><br /><br />It's a head gasket. That's really the only way the two can mix.<br /><br />The repair manual will cover the procedure to replace this. You do not want to run the bike until this is fixed. You risk damaging the engine and turning what is a low cost fix into an expensive rebuild.<br /><br />You have plenty of repair manual options: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1993/27/0/737" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/1993/27/0/737</a><br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.RepairManual.com " rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.RepairManual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:04:12 GMT</pubDate>
		<comments>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/comments.php?id=3#comments</comments>
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		<title><![CDATA[2001 Suzuki Hayabusa Repair Manual]]></title>
		<link>http://www.repairmanual.com/faq/blog.php?id=2</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<i>I'm looking for a service/repair manual for a 2001 Suzuki Hayabusa and I'm inquiring about whether your manuals are any different from the ones purchased directly from the dealer? - Jonathan Smith</i><br /><br />Mr. Smith,<br /><br />Our factory service manuals are the same as those used by dealers - the only difference is that we specialize in manuals and stock them in our warehouse for same day shipping.<br /><br />See: <a href="http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/2001/62/8/8196" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/2001/62/8/8196</a><br /><br />Note that we also now carry VESRAH OIL FILTERS and VESRAH BRAKE PADS for your bike. Changing your oil and filter regularly is one of the most cost effective preventive maintenance tasks you can perform.<br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />RepairManual.com<br /><a href="http://www.repairmanual.com" rel="external" title="Open link in new window" class="sblog_external">http://www.repairmanual.com</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 16:59:29 GMT</pubDate>
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